Cambodia

Hot was the word when I landed. It didn't stop til the a/c started and that wasn't until Vietnam. I never thought I'd be arriving in this country however the lure of Ankor Wat filled with amazing sights and history drew me in a way that I couldn't pass through Southeast Asia without visiting.


It was surprisingly easy to obtain the visa and get through customs. I secretly smiled to myself when the visa officer told me that I didn't even need a passport sized photo because they could just scan it, thus I avoided paying Walmart that extra eight dollars two months ago. Maybe it was because I chose to fly and the clientele who come to Siem Riep via air compared to the dirty packpackers on the bouncing buses spend more money but I was through the airport and out into the chaos lickety split. Immediately assaulted with cries of taxi, moto, I opted for the latter. It turned out to be the wisest two dollars I spent as my driver was Kong as in King. This man turned out to be my guide to not just the temples of the Khmer kingdom but a window into the life of Cambodia. As I discovered the guided service were more expensive if you want to travel independently and the other option of going with a bigger tour group seemed, well repulsive. I'm spoiled by the travel I've done alone so far and wanted the trend to continue.


Thus Kong was the key to this.


We made it to the temples that afternoon and while I ate lunch he taught me basic Cambodian words and taught me about the history of the temples. He was not allowed to enter the temples with me as he wasn't an official guide. Any Cambodian man who wanted to be a guide(i saw no female guides) had to pay 2000-25000 dollars to take the guide classes or get the certification. So until Kong came into what is a lot of money to a man born in a straw hut perched off the ground he will have to settle with being a well informed motor guide or tuk tuk driver. I toured Ankor Wat and then went over to Ta Phromh which was another temple complex overgrown by trees! Such cool scenery and I was lucky to have a small amount of crowds there compared the the hoards of people at the previous temple. Sunset was caught at another place still Pre Rup. Up high on stone build over a thousand years ago I saw a fiery sunset that burned through the clouds with a blood red sun that did flash green just before it disappeared(right Uncle Chris!)

Day two started early and I soon found myself putting my faith in others and little Kong (5'6'') translated to a pharmacist? that I had a sore throat from Thailand's burning northern land and needed relief! My mystery meds in hand we jetted off along the nicely paved roads to the temples. Along the way you pass by rivers with shacks hanging over them next to five star hotels. The wealth us tourists compared to the locals was staggering.

After going out in the morning to visit temples we drove out to the village where Kong was born and the wedding was being held. The houses we past were all designed up off the ground. They ranged in size but none seemed bigger than 30 by 40 feet. Much of the day to day activity took place underneath the house where cooking, hammocks and other items were stored. The rainy season Kong told me was quite wet and flooding could occur hence the raised houses and in the hot weather of the dry season it provided relief from the blazing sun. His family all greeted me with stares and smiles as Kong spoke with them. He told me he was going to shower and I said I may as well. I then noticed that showering consisted of doing your business wrapped in a sheet not more than ten feet away from where at least as many people were standing. I opted for a face wash as I wasn't comfortable enough with deftly manoeuvring the sheet to not give everyone a free show. He told me his aunt was joking about my nose as they are jealous of the big European shnozz and think they are beautiful. I enjoyed sitting with his family and it was still uncomfortable at times which let me know that it was worth doing.

Then I met his best friend who came up not much higher than my waist. Kong told me he is small but he makes up for it when he drinks beer as I was soon to find out. The three of us hopped on the motorbike and we rallied the rest of his family and soon we were all riding together to the wedding. We were greeted by the bride and groom along with their wedding party and parents immediately. I was overwhelmed by the hospitality I was shown. Everyone waied me( a greeting w/ buddist orgins, similar to bowing with your hands in a prayer gesture over your face) as I return the gracious gesture and then as a complete stranger they all repeated the greeting and beamed as I entered there wedding party. We sat at a table with music blaring out of a wall of speakers and the 7 courses of dinner began. Ten men we were all together at what would become one of the rowdy tables. Ice was immediately set on the table and put into our glasses. I soon found out that I would not be able to fill my own glass as everyone around me seemed to quickly fill it with ice and beer as soon as it neared empty. We drank Black Panther stout and Hello Beer along with Ankor beer as well. Everyone cheers ed as the beers were filled and then repeated the cycle. Smiles flashed as fast as the beer was poured. We ate and drank merrily for the next couple hours. Dancing began soon thereafter. Tables cleared away and everyone moved together in one big circle dancing individually. I was pulled and called out to show off my dance moves and I'm sure I embarrassed myself in true Daufenbach wedding fashion. It was such a joyous event that I was so lucky to attend. We left our wedding gifts as the party ended and found solace in the hammocks nearby for quite some time. Sunset was watched as the day drew to an end.
It was a great chance to see an event I've been to so many times at home and watch as people celebrated in a different way but with similar enthusiasm. I feel very lucky to have been invited!

Doi Mae Salong

I'm breaking into Thailand and starting the order in reverse! My day was invigorating that I can't wait to get this down. It could be the massive amounts of caffeine i've ingested but i only see that as a positive when it comes to writing.
Woke up in Chiang Rai. Small town on 60,000 and had one mission on my mind. I will find a motorbike. In Thailand there is not much in the way of precaution about letting a white visitor use a motorbike and I have been taking advantage. Now in a new town I need to get one and get out to the heart of Thai's tea country. Tea means mountains and mountains mean power. So i needed a beefy ride to get me up but one that does everything automatically to make up for my newbie prowess with a bike. So the shop i found with the nice bike and helmets worked well and before 830am I was on my way with a yellow helmet and my backpack strapped to my stead.
As I cruise out of the city on the left hand side of course, I take a mental check of my trip. Backpack appears to be securely strapped, highway for 30 k then 40 k of winding uphill paved roads, and gas tank is full. After some prayers for safety I sink into the groove of defensive driving mixed with bursts of speed to get around the slow moving trucks and occasional moto driver who want to drive against traffic! The signage in Thailand is relatively easy to follow and I soon find myself at the start of the country road to Doi Mae Salong. A few minutes past roadside shops and I find myself relatively alone on roads laid out to get folks up the mountain. The air is thick as smoke and haze settles all around. Its the time of year where farmers burn there land for different reasons and the result is smog in the kind of areas where on would hope for clear air to promote the beautiful landscape around you. The end result is see off into the distance is not possible and i inevitably enjoy my immediate surroundings and smells.
I get into a groove of curving up the road and begin to relax more as the sun heats up the land. I pass my first tea plantation. Rows of hedged green bushes terrace up and down the landscape. The curves become tighter and the moto is forced to slow as the town approaches. Hotel is found and I'm off to taste teas. Now a properly full stomach is in order to start a day of tea drinking so I'm estatic when I see fresh mushrooms and vegetable stir fry on the menu. When the steam dish comes out minus the fungi I question and am given another dish! Well now on a full stomach but questioning where the mushrooms were I drive down 100 meters to a tea factory. I am greeted by a lady who appears in here twenties and she motions me to sit. I use my Sawadee Krupp to say hello and realize that I will have to dig deeper to get a conversation going. A man quickly joins us and smiles as I keep doing whenever I make eye contact. I've noticed the Thia's love to smile especially to break an awkward silence as I have a tendency to do the same it works out well! There are cups of all shapes in front of me and a chemisty looking set of glass to heat water. Behind the tea bar, is a display case containing what I assume is the teas make here. The man speaks very limited english so I pull out my guidebook to point and say what is your name. We get past the akwardness and soon my som boon and I are becoming friends. Oolong tea is a specialty here and it tastes as good as any other kind I've tried. Each brew is poured into a wide mini bowl and then poured into a long cylindrical container which fits inside the rim of the bowl. You then flip them upside down so the bowl is on bottom and the cylinder is upside down full of tea, resting in the bowl. Then after wait the appropriate amount of time you slowly pull the cylinder up filling the bowl with tea and put the hot cylinder up to your nose to sniff the tea scent. You also roll this between your hands b/c of the heat! Then taste the tea and enjoy. His wife dissapears and we walk to the tea factory through the doorway and look at all the instruments they use. After that we walk back and I am surprised by birthday cake his wife Chuy Sing has brought out! Today is her birthday and I was lucky enough to be there for it and also worthy to be given a cool tasty gift!