Sunday 7 March 2010

Cambodia

Hot was the word when I landed. It didn't stop til the a/c started and that wasn't until Vietnam. I never thought I'd be arriving in this country however the lure of Ankor Wat filled with amazing sights and history drew me in a way that I couldn't pass through Southeast Asia without visiting.


It was surprisingly easy to obtain the visa and get through customs. I secretly smiled to myself when the visa officer told me that I didn't even need a passport sized photo because they could just scan it, thus I avoided paying Walmart that extra eight dollars two months ago. Maybe it was because I chose to fly and the clientele who come to Siem Riep via air compared to the dirty packpackers on the bouncing buses spend more money but I was through the airport and out into the chaos lickety split. Immediately assaulted with cries of taxi, moto, I opted for the latter. It turned out to be the wisest two dollars I spent as my driver was Kong as in King. This man turned out to be my guide to not just the temples of the Khmer kingdom but a window into the life of Cambodia. As I discovered the guided service were more expensive if you want to travel independently and the other option of going with a bigger tour group seemed, well repulsive. I'm spoiled by the travel I've done alone so far and wanted the trend to continue.


Thus Kong was the key to this.


We made it to the temples that afternoon and while I ate lunch he taught me basic Cambodian words and taught me about the history of the temples. He was not allowed to enter the temples with me as he wasn't an official guide. Any Cambodian man who wanted to be a guide(i saw no female guides) had to pay 2000-25000 dollars to take the guide classes or get the certification. So until Kong came into what is a lot of money to a man born in a straw hut perched off the ground he will have to settle with being a well informed motor guide or tuk tuk driver. I toured Ankor Wat and then went over to Ta Phromh which was another temple complex overgrown by trees! Such cool scenery and I was lucky to have a small amount of crowds there compared the the hoards of people at the previous temple. Sunset was caught at another place still Pre Rup. Up high on stone build over a thousand years ago I saw a fiery sunset that burned through the clouds with a blood red sun that did flash green just before it disappeared(right Uncle Chris!)

Day two started early and I soon found myself putting my faith in others and little Kong (5'6'') translated to a pharmacist? that I had a sore throat from Thailand's burning northern land and needed relief! My mystery meds in hand we jetted off along the nicely paved roads to the temples. Along the way you pass by rivers with shacks hanging over them next to five star hotels. The wealth us tourists compared to the locals was staggering.

After going out in the morning to visit temples we drove out to the village where Kong was born and the wedding was being held. The houses we past were all designed up off the ground. They ranged in size but none seemed bigger than 30 by 40 feet. Much of the day to day activity took place underneath the house where cooking, hammocks and other items were stored. The rainy season Kong told me was quite wet and flooding could occur hence the raised houses and in the hot weather of the dry season it provided relief from the blazing sun. His family all greeted me with stares and smiles as Kong spoke with them. He told me he was going to shower and I said I may as well. I then noticed that showering consisted of doing your business wrapped in a sheet not more than ten feet away from where at least as many people were standing. I opted for a face wash as I wasn't comfortable enough with deftly manoeuvring the sheet to not give everyone a free show. He told me his aunt was joking about my nose as they are jealous of the big European shnozz and think they are beautiful. I enjoyed sitting with his family and it was still uncomfortable at times which let me know that it was worth doing.

Then I met his best friend who came up not much higher than my waist. Kong told me he is small but he makes up for it when he drinks beer as I was soon to find out. The three of us hopped on the motorbike and we rallied the rest of his family and soon we were all riding together to the wedding. We were greeted by the bride and groom along with their wedding party and parents immediately. I was overwhelmed by the hospitality I was shown. Everyone waied me( a greeting w/ buddist orgins, similar to bowing with your hands in a prayer gesture over your face) as I return the gracious gesture and then as a complete stranger they all repeated the greeting and beamed as I entered there wedding party. We sat at a table with music blaring out of a wall of speakers and the 7 courses of dinner began. Ten men we were all together at what would become one of the rowdy tables. Ice was immediately set on the table and put into our glasses. I soon found out that I would not be able to fill my own glass as everyone around me seemed to quickly fill it with ice and beer as soon as it neared empty. We drank Black Panther stout and Hello Beer along with Ankor beer as well. Everyone cheers ed as the beers were filled and then repeated the cycle. Smiles flashed as fast as the beer was poured. We ate and drank merrily for the next couple hours. Dancing began soon thereafter. Tables cleared away and everyone moved together in one big circle dancing individually. I was pulled and called out to show off my dance moves and I'm sure I embarrassed myself in true Daufenbach wedding fashion. It was such a joyous event that I was so lucky to attend. We left our wedding gifts as the party ended and found solace in the hammocks nearby for quite some time. Sunset was watched as the day drew to an end.
It was a great chance to see an event I've been to so many times at home and watch as people celebrated in a different way but with similar enthusiasm. I feel very lucky to have been invited!

2 comments:

  1. Wow. We are heading to Cambodia in a few weeks. Does Mr. Kong have a cell phone?

    ReplyDelete
  2. no but i will send you his email.

    ReplyDelete